Howto: Metal Enclousure for PedalSHIELD.

10 years 2 weeks ago - 10 years 2 weeks ago #129 by JR
ja_hurtado was working in a metal enclosure for pedalSHIELD using a Hammond 1550D with a very good results. Find below the step by step instructions (English and Spanish)and some nice pictures.
All credit to Jose Antonio Hurtado and thanks for the great job!

[EN] The machining can be summarized following these steps:

1. Drill the interior corners of the box using a multitool like Dremel.
2. Drill the corners of the pedalSHIELD PCB to make it fit easier.
3. Using the original plastic cover as stencil, mark the holes to drill the enclosure. To drill it better, you can use a normal metal drill in the beginning and then use a conical drill to adjust the diameter.
4. It is better to use a round shaped LED to make it fit better in the hole (the first series use an oval LED).
5. Make the rest of the holes for the power supply and mini usb as big as needed. It is not a bad idea to place a small hole next to the reset push button. You can use a clip for an eventual reset.

**NOTE** The PCB has a small asymmetry between both audio JACKS. If you place one of the jacks very close to one of the case sides, the other jack will be a bit away from the other side and placing the jack washer is difficult. I used a nut without the washer.

6. Once everything is in place, it is convenient to electrically isolate the box interior. I used circuit varnish over the PCBs, connectors and box internal side.
7. Sand the enclosure, cleaning all dirt/grease and paint it using spray paint.
8. Finally print the white labels, cut and paste. You can use transparent covering plastic over the letters for better protection.

[ES] El mecanizado se puede resumir en los siguientes pasos:

1. Rebajar las esquinas del interior con mini-taladro tipo Dremel.
2. Rebajar las esquinas del PCB de Pedalshield para entre bien.
3. Usando como plantilla la tapa original de pedalshield (esa que está impresa en 3D) se marcan los agujeros para taladrar la caja por el fondo. Para taladrar se puede usar una broca normal primero y luego una de esas brocas cónicas que permiten ajustar el diámetro al tamaño necesario fácilmente.
4. El LED original es ovalado, por lo que se puede sustituir por uno redondo para facilitar el ajuste en la caja.
5. Hacer el resto agujeros para la alimentación y los cables según el tamaño de los conectores. No está de más hacer un pequeño agujero en el lateral para poder meter un clip por si hubiera que forzar un reset en el Arduino.

**NOTA**: La placa tiene una ligera asimetría entre los conectores input/output que hace que si ajustas uno de ellos a la pared de la caja, el otro te quede muy lejos de la otra pared sin forma de atornillar el embellecedor al conector. Yo lo solucioné atornillándolo con una tuerca, aunque tuve que renunciar a la arandela de plástico ya que el milímetro de más era suficiente para que el jack no hiciera contacto.

6. Una vez que todo encaja bien conviene aislar electricamente el interior de la caja, por ejemplo, aplicando barniz de circuitos en el interior de la caja y en los conectores.
7. Lijar bien la caja por fuera y limpiar bien de polvo y grasa. Luego pintar con pintura en spray.
8. Finalmente, imprimir las etiquetas en papel adhesivo usando letras blancas sobre fondo negro. Se puede pegar encima de las etiquetas forro adhesivo para protegerlo de la humedad y las manchas. Recortar y pegar.

keep it simple
The following user(s) said Thank You: gamoesp, Yetzederixx, jruddy, shanemikel, aknudsen

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9 years 4 months ago #215 by shanemikel
Did this project help at all with noise?

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9 years 3 weeks ago #303 by Ray
Some folk asked me about other metal enclosures compatibility:
  • Hammond 1590B: way too small in all directions
  • Hammond 1590BB: Not enough deep.
  • Hammond 1591 or 125B style: Not enough deep, it is very close but I reckon that it not fits for 1cm or less, see the images below

So, so far the Hammond 1550D with the tutorial above is the only I am aware of that can contain the pedalSHIELD.

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7 years 11 months ago #512 by aknudsen
Does anyone have suggestions for building an enclosure in alternative materials, e.g. through 3D printing or laser cutting? Thinking it might be fun to do this yourself in a Fab Lab :)

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7 years 11 months ago - 7 years 11 months ago #514 by Ray
Hi, the most consistent solution is laser cut plexiglas, the result is pretty neat. There is another topic in the forum where you can also see and download 3d files for a 3d printer, the resukt is also very cool and artistic:

Besides that I have also seen people using wood and brass, the result is also cool:
The following user(s) said Thank You: aknudsen

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7 years 11 months ago - 7 years 11 months ago #515 by aknudsen
Thanks Ray! Do you have the full details on how to laser cut a plexiglas enclosure though? I've never tried my hand at laser cutting (or 3D printing before).

By enclosure I mean a full box, like the metal enclosure in this topic, not just a faceplate, to make myself clear. It seems more protective wrt. the Arduino, which is why I'd like one.

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7 years 11 months ago #516 by Ray
Hi, for laser cut plexiglas you need professional equipment, there is some people on ebay offering custom cut acrylic services and also I am sure that there is some websites dedicated to this. This is just for a faceplate.

If you are looking for a full metal enclosure, the only I am aware of is the one described on the beginning of this topic.
The following user(s) said Thank You: aknudsen

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7 years 11 months ago #517 by aknudsen
Thanks again Ray, I guess the metal enclosure (of this thread) is the way to go then!

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7 years 4 months ago #703 by DanielKirk2
All credit to ja_hurtado for starting this project. After reading this thread and deciding I wasn't up to the precision drilling required (and needing several other enclosures for other projects) I contacted Pedal Parts Plus ( [Note: I am not affiliated with them in any way. I had used them on a previous project with good results.]

I sent them the instructions in this thread, plus my completed PedalShield Due for measurements. They created a custom template and drilled a great enclosure. It adds some features to the original. First, it includes a rectangular cutout for the USB micro connectors to make it easy to connect to a computer and make updates. Second, it adds a power connector at the top of the unit, more typical for BOSS style pedals. I then wired the top power connector "reversed" so that it takes a BOSS power supply (center positive) and then is soldered to the power supply pins of the Arduino with that polarity. After receiving it, I also realized there should be a cutout for the adjustable pot. That one I drilled myself.

If anyone wants one of these, you can contact Pedal Parts Plus. They saved the template (has everything except for the adjustable pot hole) so they can drill you up one right quick.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Ray, BowDown

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7 years 4 months ago #707 by BowDown
How much did you pay for it?

Also, how these work? I mean, it seems metal enclosure. But how the pins on the bottom of the board do not touch the metal enclosure? You screw the board onto it?

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